These planting tips have worked with some of our members in the past, if you have other methods you have found successful please feel to leave a comment. You can do this by clicking the “leave a comment” below. Your knowledge will help us grow better dahlias.
- Bring tubers fifteen days… three weeks out of cold storage to stimulate and break dormancy.
- Transfer to an area of normal house temperatures.
- Check tubers for any root or softness.
- If tubers are in a clump form, wait for the eyes to show and then divide tubers off of the clump.
- When the eyes are evident, pick out the stronger eyes tubers and prepare to pot them.
- Using 6”‐8” pots, fill them ¾ full with planting soil or peat moss.
- Plant the tuber in a horizontal position, with the eye ½” below the surface of the soil.
- In two weeks, green foliage should begin to appear.
- By June 1st you should be able to transplant them outside to your garden.
- Each plant should have three sets of leaves and be 6”‐8”. Keep in mind, DAHILAS CANNOT STAND ANY FROST. Before doing this, make sure to check the weather forecast.
Started Dahlia Tubers
In central Alberta, we plant our tubers directly into the ground between the 15th of May and the 1stof June.
Weather varies each year, so we cannot stress enough to check the weather report.
- The soil should be rototilled or dug to a depth of 8”‐10”.
- A 10‐10‐10 or 14‐14‐14 slow release fertilizer can be dug in at the same time.
- Stakes should be put in the ground with each plant.
- The stakes should be 3’ high and spaced approximately 20” apart.
Eight Week Old Dahlias
PLANTING TUBERS OR PLANTS
- Place the plants next to the stake and tie the plant to it. You should use a non‐abrasive material, such: light string, cotton, nylon, pantyhose, etc.
- Place the tuber with the eye next to the stake, the tuber should be horizontal with the eye covered with ½” of soil.
These planting tips have worked with some of our members in the past, if you have other methods you have found successful please feel to leave a comment. You can do this by clicking the “leave a comment” below. Your knowledge will help us grow better glads.
- Bring corms ten days—2 weeks out of cold storage to stimulate and break dormancy. Transfer to an area of normal house temperatures.
- Peeling off the husks is not strictly necessary, but it does permit inspection of the corm. DO NOT PLANT CORMS THAT HAVE SOFT OR ROTTEN SPOTS.
- Each corm has about 6 eyes or potential shoots. Two or three of these will sprout. If you wish to grow the biggest, then remove all but the strongest eye, using a paring knife or potato peeler. It’s a good idea to disinfect the knife regularly in a mild bleach solution
A Q-tip dipped in a mild bleach solution to disinfect the “wound” on the corm works well.
- Prepare field stakes. Use a Sharpie “Industrial Strength” permanent ink marker to write variety names on the stakes. Write on BOTH sides because the ink does tend to fade.
- Do any Organization of corms according to one’s color scheme in the garden—or planting areas.
Here in southern Alberta, we plant when the May Tree starts to leaf out, and when the soil is dry enough to be worked. This has been as early as April 15, but generally about April 25 until May 10. We have found that it’s best to get them in as early as possible. Glads planted can stand the May frosts, will still sprout (slowly) and if they are out of the ground, can tolerate 2 or 3 degrees of frost.
- The soil should be dug or rototilled to a depth of 7 or 8 inches and then raked level. Using a shovel, trenches can be dug in rows to a depth of 4-5 inches.
- If you are landscape gardening, dig holes about 12″ in diameter to the above depth for clumps of 5–6.
- If your soil is reasonably fertile, then fertilizer is probably not necessary before planting. In the past, for exhibition purposes, we lightly scattered 11-52-0, and Pink Vigoro in the trench, scratched it in and then set the bulb on top of a handful of sand.
PLANTING THE CORMS
- Place the corms in the row/hole with the base down, with the shoots pointing straight up.
- One can use Bulb Dust lightly sprinkled over the corms to discourage fungus and to foil cutworms.
- Soil is then raked in to fill the trench/hole.
Note: The foregoing could be applied to clump planting, using 5–6 corms per hole. (An aside, for a more dramatic effect, plant clumps in all the same variety, then the blooms will be finished about the same time, and one can tidy the area, leaving the leaves).